At the top of the world -- November 27-29, 2007

The next stop on our 10-day whirlwind tour of northern Vietnam was Sapa, a small community at the northern tip of the country and only a stone's throw away from the Chinese border. It's also home to emerald-green rice terraces, a breathtaking mountainous landscape and colourfully garbed ethnic tribes who flood the streets hawking embroidered textiles, silver jewellery and sometimes marijuana or hash.



Of course, the best way to explore Sapa's lush valleys, stunning vistas and tiny villages is by motorbike. We lost little time in renting our own rides and heading out with our new travel companions Rory and Danielle, a lovely couple who hail from gorgeous Hawaii. (We met in Cat Ba, and shared a 4-person sleeper cabin for the 10 hour train journey from Hanoi. They turned out to be the perfect travel companions - easy going, fun and adventurous -- so we ended up hanging out with them during our time in Sapa.)

The crisp cold temperature was a stark contrast to the tropic humidity that blankets most of Southeast Asia, so we bundled ourselves into scarves, mittens and toques and hit the road. Along the way, we got up close and personal with buffalo...



... haggled with young but savvy Hmong girls ...



... snacked on fire-roasted sticky rice, sweet potatoes and chestnuts at a roadside stall ...



... and posed in front of some pretty awesome peaks.

Scaling Halong Bay - November 22-26, 2007

Up in the northeastern corner of Vietnam lies a vast bay sprinkled with 1,600 islets and islands. Named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1994, Halong Bay is a popular tourist destination in Vietnam - and no wonder. Take a short boat ride into the bay and you'll pass hundreds of tiny secluded beaches tucked between spectacular limestone cliffs -- like Railay but multiplied by 1,000. Here's one particularly beautiful rock.



I had vague ideas about following the crowd and booking myself onto a multi-day trip aboard a boat to see some of the major attractions in the bay. With Shannon as my travel companion, I should have known better. While most tourists will simply gaze in wonder at the beautiful cliffs, he's quickly scoping out whether we can climb them.

So he hooked us up with Slopony, a new outdoor adventure outfit that is pioneering the sport of rock climbing in this most stunning of locations. Run by two Americans, Slopony is based in the tiny town of Cat Ba, a tranquil little town on one of the bay's largest islands. Here's the view from our fourth floor balcony.



Shannon's rock climbing obsession turned out to be the perfect way to experience Halong Bay. The rock climbing itself was great - it's a new sport here so unlike Railay, the routes are not overly crowded and the locations are gorgeously primitive. We spent one day climbing the cliffs in a pretty valley, surrounded by baying goats, meandering buffalo and rice farmers who must have thought we were slightly demented.

The company itself was great. They're professional and experienced, but best of all, Slopony has a laidback energy that is quite refreshing after the aggressive sales pitches of the local touts.

Here's a couple shots of me climbing. Here, Shannon happened to be coming down from a completed climb just as I was trying a route right next to him. Usually, there is a lot of "on-the-ground" coaching as the experienced climbers try and tell you where to put your feet and hands since from their vantage point, they have a better view of the route. This time though, Shannon was able to literally point out the holds to me, and at one point, he even grabbed my hand and placed it right on the ledge.



And here, I'm trying to get myself over a particularly hard "crux" - the most difficult part of the climb. I wasn't able to complete the climb on my first try, but did so when I returned the next day.

Hanoi's charms -- November 20-21, 2007

After 12 days of scrambling up cliffs and lazing by the pool, it was time for Shannon and I to strap on our backpacks, bandage up our wounds and head to Vietnam for a whirlwind glimpse of this enigmatic country. Like everyone else, I was familiar with its recent history and I had heard rumours of its astounding natural beauty. Unfortunately, we had only 10 days to spend in Vietnam so we decided to concentrate on two of the more popular destinations in the north (Halong Bay and Sapa).

***

First stop of course was Hanoi, Vietnam's capital city and the political centre. It's also one of the more charming cities that I have visited in Southeast Asia -- the numerous lakes and trees provide a tranquil antidote to the city's hustle and bustle, especially in the early mornings when you can spot crowds of Vietnamese playing badminton and performing Tai Chi along the shores.

The Old Quarter is an especially intriguing area to explore on foot with street side vendors hawking every kind of merchandise along tiny winding lanes. We were delighted by the street food - in addition to the ubiquitous (and delicious) pho and spring rolls, we enjoyed the baguettes and pastries (we can thank the French colonialists for something!), the Vietnamese coffee with sweet milk and the "do-it-yourself" barbecued beef dipped in a pungent spicy sauce.

One of the more memorable Hanoi exploits involved renting a motorcycle and heading out into the chaotic yet controlled traffic. We quickly learned that red lights are just a suggestion, names of streets change without warning and size really does matter -- we deferentially gave way to the transport trucks, SUVs and cars lest we ended up on their windshields.



I also had the chance to meet up with an old university friend (Mike Coleman) who has been working for the UN in Hanoi for the past three years. It was great to catch up and find out what's been going on in each others' lives since Ryerson, plus he took us out to a few of the city's hotspots. Warning though - the nightlife shuts down pretty early in Hanoi with the streets virtually deserted by midnight.

A rock climber's paradise - November 7 to 19, 2007

As I headed back to southern Thailand, I thought I was in for some serious relaxation and tan maintenance. Instead, in the 10 days I've been here, my knees, ankles, elbows and hands have been covered in bruises and scrapes. That's because the tiny postcard-esque isthmus of Railay is more than just a beach destination; its surrounding majestic limestone cliffs have attracted rock climbers from all over the world.



And my brother Shannon, an avid climber for many years, was determined to get me out on the rocks. He even bought me my own harness and climbing shoes so there was no turning back! Shannon's friend Jenny and her five year old son Aden also came equipped and ready to climb.

I've got to say, as I scrambled up 20 metre verticle cliffs, wrapping my fingers into tiny holes and cramming my toes onto narrow ledges, there is something slightly insane about this sport - especially when I glanced down at the tiny people on the ground and realized just how high up I was. Rock climbing is not for the faint of heart. Or for those scared of heights.

Here I am getting set for a climb - you can't tell, but I'm nervous. In the background, Shannon is ready to belay me so I won't crash to the ground if I slip off the rock.



Here's me "top-roping" a climb - if I fall (which I did quite often!), the rope will catch me so I will just sit in the air. It's much safer, especially for a beginner like me.



Here's Shannon leading a climb -- he is setting up the rope so we can top-rope it. It's more dangerous because there is less security -- although Jenny is belaying him from the ground, he will fall a much greater distance if he slips.



While upper body strength is key to a good rock climber, the scramble to the top of a climb is often a matter of flinging any available appendage onto sharp rocks, into crevices or onto outcrops in a desperate attempt to get yourself over a difficult patch. Hence all my bruises and cuts. But there is a deliciously satisfying feeling when, bathed in sweat and forearms throbbing, I haul myself up to the top and place my hand on the anchor -- and often the views are spectacular. Now that I have my own equipment, I will definitely check out the climbing gym in Toronto.

My time in Railay was not just sweat and bruises however. Daily massages, sunset drinks on the beach and afternoon lounging by the pool were required by all to smooth out the edges of our morning exertions.

My brother is coming! -- November 6,2 007

I've been traveling on my own now for the past 10 months, and for the most part, I've really enjoyed the freedom and independence of making my own decisions and doing exactly what I want. But there are downsides of traveling alone. Practically, it's just that more expensive when you can't split costs of accommodation and transportation. But more than that, it can get lonely at times when for the fourth day in a row you're eating alone at a restaurant and glance over at a table of friends hooting it up together.

As a single traveler, I have met tons of other people, gone out for dinner and drinks, and even traveled together for weeks at a time. But most of the time, we're really just ships passing through the night; we pause for a bit of company, swap war stories and advice, and even optimistically exchange e-mail addresses. We then go our separate ways, knowing deep down that you'll likely never speak to each other again.

Well, all that is going to change in a few hours. I'm in Ao Nang in Southern Thailand, waiting eagerly and impatiently for my older brother Shannon to arrive. I'm thrilled to not only have a travel companion for the next month, but to be sharing this amazing experience with my beloved brother. I can't wait!

Hunting dragons in Komodo - October 30, 2007

Before coming to Indonesia, I happened to catch an Animal Planet special on the Komodo dragon. Every detail about these ferocious lizards fascinated me -- their powerful jaws that can gulp down an adult deer in three bites, their poisonous saliva enabling them to attack and eat buffaloes (and sometimes humans!), the fact they only be found on three small islands off the coast of Flores. I knew that I wanted to see the dragons, not cooped up in some decrepit zoo, but in their natural habitat, where they are truly the masters of their domain.

Getting to Komodo Island from Lombok requires traveling by boat for three days past the volcanic island of Sumbawa. The journey itself was pleasurable -- given the dodgy reputation of some of the boat operators plying this route, I decided to fork over a bit of cash to go with Perama Tours, a company that has an excellent record for safety and professionalism. I was happy with my decision. The crew were attentive, the guide knowledgeable and best of all the food was delicious. I opted to sleep on the deck so was able to enjoy the spectacular sunrises and the rugged beauty of Sumbawa's coastline along the way.



As we neared our destination, the rich green jungles gave way to arid, savannah like terrain. It was hard to imagine that these desolate islands supported not only these gigantic carnivores, but a couple of tiny fishing villages, wild pigs and deer, buffalo and other tasty morsels for the dragons.



After a slightly scary safety lecture (example: women who are menstruating should let the rangers know so they can provide them with extra protection!), we disembarked and eyed the beach nervously -- the dragons are known to come to the beach to look for prey.

Our three park rangers then joined us, and with their big sticks, stationed themselves at the front, middle and back to begin our hunt for the dragons. We didn't have long to wait; two enormous dragons were lounging beneath the cafeteria hut, staring at us with the lazy confidence that comes with being the island's top predator. These creatures are simply awesome - at three metres long, their sheer bulk, enormous curved claws and sharp teeth were enough for us to realize that these were no ordinary lizards.



Then suddenly as we were walking back the park headquarters, we spotted a full grown dragon coming toward us along the path. To see these powerful creatures dozing around the cafeteria was intimidating enough, but to watch its leg muscles ripple, the toxic drool spilling out of its mouth and its tongue flicking as it sniffed for prey was just plain scary.

The rangers' voices suddenly sharpened as they told us to get off the path immediately. With adrenaline pumping, I and several other tourists scrambled into a small enclosure, which we realized too late didn't have an easy escape route should the dragon decide to go after us. As it got closer, the dragon seemed to turn toward us as if it had detected the delectable scent of a possible meal, but luckily for us, one of the rangers had stationed himself at the entrance of our enclosure and waved his stick at the dragon. It quickly decided we weren't worth the effort and slowly ambled past us. I don't think we were really in any danger as the rangers are well trained, but we exchanged relieved sighs and rolling of the eyes as we savoured our close encounter with this amazing beast.

Taking the plunge - October 23-27

Back when I was communing with the sea turtles at Sipidan, I jealously imagined the kind of creatures the divers were seeing at 20 metres below the surface. I resolved then and there that I would take the plunge (literally!) and get my PADI Open Water license in Indonesia.

So after my week in Bali, I headed to Gili Air, one of three tiny tropical islands off the coast of Lombok and the site of several highly reputable dive centres. It turned out to be the perfect place to take my diving lessons - the waters were crystal clear, the white sand beaches pristine and with no cars or motorcycles on the island -- just the clip-clop of horse drawn carts -- the atmosphere was decidedly calm.

After some hemming and hawing, I decided to go with Dream Divers, a German-run outfit, mainly because they had several cute cats hanging out in the lounge area. Unlike Bali, few tourists make it to the Gili Islands outside of July and August so I was pleased to find out that it would only be me and the instructor that week.

After handing me a thick text book, my instructor had me get into the wetsuit and strap on the heavy scuba gear. We then waddled straight into the shallower part of the beach to begin learning the fundamentals of breathing from a tank of air, holding my nose and blowing to reduce the pressure in my ears, and inflating and deflating my "jacket" so I could float along the the ocean floor. My hardest challenge involved taking my mask off underwater, placing it back over my eyes and breathing through my nose to clear the water. For the first two days, I would panic as soon as the water hit my face and after several futile attempts would flap to the surface to gasp air.

My lessons also involved learning a great deal of scuba theory - the physics of the water pressure in your ears and sinuses, the geographical features that produce different kinds of waves and currents, the biological affects on your body as you dive to 20 or 30 metres. Complete with quizzes and a final exam, I spent my evenings studying the text book and working on mathematical calculations to figure how much nitrogen builds up in your body after a dive -- I think this was my first "homework" assignment in 10 years!

The highlight of my lessons, of course, was putting all the theory and newly learned skills to practice in a real deep water dive. On my third and fourth day, my instructor took me to four different spots around the Gili Islands -- and I'm happy to report that it was every bit as thrilling as I imagined! At first, I was a bit out of control as I kept bumping into my instructor or hitting the bottom of the ocean floor, but by my fourth dive, I was learning to control my buoyancy with greater confidence.

Best of all, the animals were even more colourful and weirdly shaped than I had ever seen along the surface. Lion fish, cuttle fish, stingrays, eels, sea turtles -- the waters around the Gili Islands were teeming with life. I wish I had an underwater camera so I could capture this beautiful new world.

Here are some photos of Gili Air -- whether you're a diver or not, it is a tranquil place to spend a few days.



These local boys starting hamming it up as soon as they saw my camera.



The full moon hovering over the horizon

A tale of two cities - October 17-20, 2007

After a few days of chasing volcanoes, I decided to head to Bali to see for myself the mythical island that lures millions of tourists to its shores every year. As soon as I disembarked from the ferry at the western tip, it was clear that I had stepped into a vastly different culture than Java's. Stone sculptures of various Hindu and other unknown deities stood guard at all the intersections and bridges, while ornately carved doorways and palm thatched pavilions zoomed by my bus window.

During my time here, I visited two cities that symbolize the divergent worlds of Bali - one in which the Balinese religious and cultural traditions continue to thrive despite the crowds of foreign visitors and the other in which the Western gods of Starbucks and MacDonalds -- and dreadlocked surfer dudes -- rule the streets.

***

From the ferry, I headed straight to Ubud. Surrounded by terraced rice fields and lush river valleys, this laid back community is the artistic heart of Bali. The streets are lined with galleries showcasing the work of local painters, sculptors, woodcarvers, batik artisans, silversmiths and jewellers, as well as intricately carved temples and statues. Take a walk through the verdant countryside around the city and you'll find tiny villages with artists at work on their creations in one-room studios. Some of the merchandise in Ubud were of the usual souvenir mass-produced quality but there were many exquisitely crafted handmade, unique pieces on display - self-control was required to to resist the urge to buy one of everything!

As I walked the streets, I found myself just as fascinated by the subtle examples of Balinese creativity and beauty -- the fuchsia flowers tucked behind the ears of a stone god, the tiny palm leaf trays filled with rice, flowers, cookies and candies set out on the ground in front of stores and homes each morning to appease the demons. Sometimes, the artistry was a bit macabre, like this Rangda devouring a child.



One of the many highlights of my visit to Ubud were the nightly cultural shows - shadow puppets, fire walkers, traditional Balinese dances. They are quite touristy but well performed and entertaining. My favorite was the Kecak Fire and Trance show in which a circle of about 100 men chant and sway as an accompaniment to the dancers acting out scenes from the ancient Ramayana legend.



***

In my two days in the famed beach resort of Kuta, I felt like I was in a little Western enclave of fast food chains, designer stores (Ralph Lauren Polo franchises on every block!) and kitschy souvenir shops (giant wooden penis anyone?). Skimpily clad foreigners wandered the streets, blithely ignoring the modest sensibilities of the local people. At night, the streets became a pulsating mass of reggae, club music and drunken revelers.

There was nothing much to remind me that I was in Bali -- aside from the sticky heat and the odd palm tree, I would have a hard time knowing I was in Asia! I can only hope that the hordes of tourists here also make the effort to see Ubud and other parts of Bali so they get a taste of this fascinating culture.

The one moving "attraction" in Kuta is the memorial erected to honour the 200 victims of the 2002 Bali bombings, which exploded along Kuta's busiest street. All that is left of the Sari Club (the site where most of the victims died) is a fenced grassy plot of land, along which relatives have left heartbreaking messages and photos of their loved ones -- their pain and anguish are palpable. As I glanced through the names of the victims on the memorial, I thought of all the brothers and sisters, mothers and fathers, husbands and wives, friends and lovers, who on that fateful day were left behind to mourn the empty space in their families.