A taste of China in the mountains - February 15, 2007

Stepping off the bus in Mae Salong, it's easy to think you were mistakenly dropped off in China. The street signs are in Mandarin, there are Chinese red lanterns over many of the shops and the architecture of the houses were distinctly Chinese.

For such a tiny village, Mae Salong has quite a storied history -- it was settled by a regiment of the Kuomintang army who fled China after the 1949 Communist Revolution. They simply set up their life as they had left it in Yunnan province -- and quickly beome involved in the opium trade operating along the borders of Burma, Laos and northern Thailand. Mae Salong was quite isolated from the Thai authorities, and with poor roads and its proximity to Burma, it soon became an important centre for the infamous opium warlord Khun Sa.

For decades, the Thai army's efforts to stamp out the drug industry met with little success -- it wasn't until the 1980s when they drove Khun Sa into Burma that Mae Salong began to open up. Paved roads and efforts to replace the poppy cultivation with tea, corn and other crops helped turn this tiny village into the tourist destination that it is today.

And no wonder -- set high at the top of a mountain rolling peaks, rice paddies and plantations on all sides, the views from this quiet village is spectactularly beautiful.

I decided to go on a four hour horseback trek into the surrounding countryside, which stopped in several remote hillside villages. My horse was a bit naughty -- I think he knew he had a novice on his back because he kept stepping off to the side to munch on grass and leaves, no matter how hard I tugged at his leash! Oh well.. it was a lot of fun.

Killing myself at Phu Kradung -- February 10, 2007

Okay, what was I thinking? I decided to take a day trip to Phu Kradung National Park for some hiking. According to Lonely Planet, the 6km trail was "not that challenging" and "is quite scenic." Home to various wildlife and peppered with cliffs, waterfalls and forests... sounds lovely right?

The trail is broken down into seven sections.... let's just say that by the second one, I was ready to die! This was no leisurely stroll through the forest; this was literally scaling up the side of a mountain by scrambling over rocks, trudging up a zillion stairs and climbing treacherous ladders. And because I had decided not to spend the night in the park, I was faced with a time limit if I wanted to catch the last bus back to my home base in Leoi, 1.5 hours away.

My hike turned into a test of physical will and strength - the park ranger said that it takes most people five hours to reach the top; three hours for those who were really booting it. Once I started, I couldn't turn back until I reached the summit (I'm kinda stubborn that way) so I plodded on.

Along the way, I passed many Thai hikers (for some reason, no western tourists) who were very friendly and sweet. One thing I can't understand though is their tolerance for heat. It was bloody hot and I was soaked in my shorts and T-shirt. Yet many of the Thai hikers wore long pants, jeans, jackets, sweaters etc. I would have fainted!

Well, I made it up in three hours! Whew.... I was so pooped that I was barely able to appreciate the spectacular view. I think this sign says it all ... i really did feel like I conquered Phu Kradung. Needless to say, my butt and legs hurt for days and I had to get several Thai massages (I know, tough life!).

Chilling in a Mekong oasis - February 5-7, 2007

After travelling for several days through some of the northeast's most congested, noisy, dirty urbanized areas, I landed in Nong Kai. Stretched along the banks of the Mekong River, this sleepy town is the gateway for many travellers to Laos and as such, is set up well with many budget guesthouses and excellent food.

The pulse of Nong Kai is the Mekong River, one of the world's major waterways meandering through China, Myanmar, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. It has witnessed the rise and fall of some of history's mightiest civilizations and continues to sustain the lives of millions of people. And as I biked along the bank and gazed toward Laos on the other side I had to pinch myself a few times, marvelling that I am seeing this with my own eyes -- this is why I love to travel! Below is a sunset on the Mekong, taken from a slow boat cruise... the bridge in the background connects Thailand and Laos.

I stayed at the wonderfully serene Mut Mee Guesthouse. After staying at some rather sketchy hotels in urban Thailand, my bungalow was a lovely treat -- a four poster bed, a tiny veranda perfect for reading and drinking a Singha beer, hot water shower...

One of the strangest attractions in this town is the Salakeawkoo sculpture garden, built by a Laotion mystic who died in 1996. His mummified corpse lies in state in the centre, and is surrounded by gigantic stone statues of Buddhist and Hindu deities. Below are photos of a 25 metre high Buddha surrounded by a coiled naga cobra with several scary looking heads and a lovely skeletal couple, signifying that passion is not eternal!