The soul of Luang Prabang - July 21, 2007

In Laos, there is a well trodden tourist trail that starts in Vientiene, pauses in Vang Vieng and then winds itself through spectacular mountainous terrain to the ancient royal city of Luang Prabang. At 700 metres above sea level, the surrounding mountains and rivers provide a peacefulness to this languid spot despite the huge numbers of tourists that arrive here every day. Unlike Vang Vieng, the city has managed to maintain a dignified front -- perhaps the dozens of wats and large numbers of monks walking the streets compel visitors to tread carefully and respectfully so as not to disturb the city's ancient Buddhist traditions.

Declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995, Luang Prabang's main attraction is its architecture. Up until 1975, this was the home of Lao's royal family, which over hundreds of years commissioned the construction of 66 wats throughout the city. The style is distinctive to Luang Prabang - sweeping five tiered gabled roofs, gold plated verandas with intricate carvings of Buddhist folklore, colourful glass mosaics depicting everyday village life. After a particularly devastating attack from a Chinese tribe in the 19th century, the royal family decided to accept protection from the French, which began constructing brick and stucco buildings amongst the traditional Lao shophouses.

Becoming a World Heritage site has turned what was once one of the poorest cities in Laos into a prosperous tourist hub and provided much needed UN restoration funds and an international team of experts to preserve its architectual legacy. Luang Prabang is the kind of city where you enjoy the simple pleasures of wandering the streets and "discovering" the beautiful wats tucked between stately colonial villas.




What I like most about Luang Prabang, however, is the resilience of the Lao culture in the face of increasing numbers of travellers. There is no doubt that tourism has had an enormous impact on the city, and judging by the amount of guesthouses, Western-style restaurants and internet cafes, many of its residents have come to depend on foreigners for their livelihood. Yet, the Lao people seem to have taken this influx of Westerners in stride and have continued to maintain the same Buddhist traditions that have been practiced for hundreds of years. You can see it in some of the quieter moments, like the elderly woman who suddenly bows her head and clasps her hands together as a sign of respect as three monks pass by her doorway. Or the gentle hum of chanting that spill over the wat walls into the streets.

One Saturday afternoon, we were treated to a more colourful example as hundreds of monks in their brilliant orange robes marched down the busiest street as part of a funeral procession for a revered monk. The restaurants and cafes shut down for several hours and Laotions, many of whom travelled from all over the country, lined the streets to pay their respect to one of their greatest spiritual leaders. It was a touching example of just how important Buddhism continues to be in the everyday lives of the local people.



It was also heartening to see that unlike some popular destinations in Southern Thailand where tourism has completely submerged the local culture, Luang Prabang has so far been able to open its doors and share its beauty with the world without losing its soul.