Mixed feelings on Vang Vieng - July 16, 2007

There's nothing subtle about Vang Vieng. Surrounded by spectacular limestone karst peaks and nestled alongside the Nam Song river, this small town has capitalized on its natural beauty to become a backpacker mecca. On my first afternoon I wandered around the town to soak up the stunning scenery and found myself catching my breath a few times as I watched the sun cast a warm light on mountains that seemed close enough to touch.



Not surprisingly, the activities are the highlight of this picturesque town. Tubing down the river seems to be the rite of passage for most travellers here, and several bars have been set up along the shoreline for people to stop and have a beer or two (or several, judging by the level of inebriation). Caving, rock climbing and rafting are all popular here; aiming for a bit of exercise, I chose to go on a kayaking / caving expedition with four other travellers.

First stop was Tham Nam, a 500 metre cave with a tributary of the Nam Song river flowing through. We flopped onto innertubes and using fixed ropes and paddling, we pulled ourselves along the tunnel for about 40 minutes. The cave itself was impressive with stalactites and interesting rock formations along the walls, but it was the sensation of penetrating the unknown darkness on a floating device that I'll never forget. Soon after our cave expedition, we got into our kayaks and headed downstream for 15 kms. There was just the right combination of exciting rapids and calmer waters for my partner and I to get some adrenaline and some exercise.

I've enjoyed Vang Vieng for its magnificent surroundings and fun activities but like any "backpacker mecca" there is a not so nice element that comes with hordes of youngsters invading such a small town. Public drunkenness, young women walking around town in their bikinis (a serious no-no for any Southeast Asian culture), a street lined with resturants playing Friends episodes at full blast, 24-7... it feels a bit too much like spring break in Fort Lauderdale. For me to get a real taste of Lao, it's time to move on!