My first Cambodian impressions -- March 9, 2007

I landed in Phnom Penh late Monday night, and as the taxi took me to my hotel, I stared out the window at the streets, the people, the crumbling buildings trying to imagine the city as it was 30 years ago. Coming from the sparkling new Bangkok airport, the contrast between Thailand and Cambodia was starkly clear - I had indeed entered a third world country.

I chatted with the driver who was interested to learn that I had been born in Phnom Penh in 1975 -- he would have been old enough to remember April 17, 1975, and it struck me that the memories of the Khmer Rouge must still be so raw for so many Cambodians. I didn't have the nerve to ask him about what he experienced ... I'm not yet sure if people are open to talking about it.

After four days of walking through Phnom Penh, four things have stood out for me..

-- The traffic is crazy! I thought Bangkok was chaotic but at least they have lights and rules. Here, the cars, motos, bikes all follow their own laws - motos often zip down the wrong side of the street and there are no traffic lights or right of way at intersections. I sat at one corner for 10 minutes and watched the vehicles converge from all four sides and somehow move their way around each other to get across to the other side. There are very few crosswalks so if you have to cross a road as a pedestrian, you have to calmly step out in front of the oncoming traffic and trust they can see you! They generally will just move around you so you must keep a steady pace and not surprise the drivers or you will get hit! That said, accidents - espeically for motos -- are very common.

-- Phnom Penh is a poor city but there is a certain charm that slowly creeps into you. There is a pretty promenade with trees and flapping flags right along the bank of the Tonle Sap river where many tourists and Cambodians alike spend their evening. The wide boulevards are lined with trees and there are stretches of park with sculptures and monuments. Best of all is the colonial architecture, which is everywhere in the city - the French certainly left their mark on Phnom Penh. For many years, the buildings were left to rot but recently there has been a resurgence of restoration by the government, which sees the tourist value of beautifying the city. The following photos are typical - they stand side by side, with one falling into disrepair and the other painted the typical cream yellow.

-- Cambodians are a very attractive people -- both the men and women -- and I'm not just saying that cause I'm Cambodian! There is something quite distinctive in their look, certainly different than the Thais. I'm not sure if there is a mix in the history of the Khmer people that has resulted in a more defined bone structure and beautiful eyes.

-- The poverty in the city is striking and depressing -- many young children begging in the streets, often leading a blind parent or a grandparent with amputated limbs. As you leave the restaurants or museums, they approach you with their hands out and with the saddest expressions on their faces. There are a lot of NGOs (non-governmental agencies) in Cambodia - and I wonder if they are making a difference?